W słowach kilku o pielęgnacji domowej cery trądzikowej

Trądzik coś co nas przeraża. Dziś kilka słów o cerze trądzikowej i troszkę więcej o jej pielęgnacji domowej. A w kolejny poniedziałek napiszę o zabiegach dla cery trądzikowej. Mamy wiele rodzajów trądziku: młodzieńczy, polekowy, alergiczny, różowaty, krostkowy, grudkowo-krostkowy i chyba najczęściej spotykany u mnie w gabinecie ostatnimi czasy trądzik ludzi dorosłych (w ramach przypomnienia odsyłam do wpisu: http://novitegabinet.pl/tld-czyli-tradzik-ludzi-doroslych/ ).

Co więc stoi za naszym niechlubnym trądzikiem?

czytaj dalej…

Przede wszystkim wpływ na wygląd naszej skóry mają hormony, głównie zwiększona produkacja androgenów, czyli męskich hormonów płciowych. Kolejnymi czynnikami wpływającymi na zmiany trądzikowej są przyjmowane leki, zbyt duża ekspozycja na słońce(tak, tak teraz pewnie posypie się, że w lecie przecież skóra trądzikowa się „wycisza” szczególnie jak się dużo opala – tak, ponieważ jest przesuszona zmiany trądzikowe są mniejsze, ale gwarantuje, że jesienią one wrócą i to często ze zdwojoną siłą, a także pamiętajmy jak negatywny wpływ na skórę ma słońce). Bardzo często mamy też doczynienia z trądzikiem związanym ze spożywaniem pewnych pokarmów. Mam tutaj na myśli coraz częściej występujące alergie czy nietolerancje pokarmowe, niestety ma to związek z coraz niższą jakością spożywanych produktów wysoko przetworzonych. Należy także pamiętać, że m.in. słodycze, ostre potrawy, chipsy i fastfoody będą nasilać zmiany trądzikowe. Trądzik wywoływany jest przez bakterię p.acnes a bakterie żywią się cukrami, więc spożywając dużo cukrów „karmimy trądzik”. Pielęgnacja domowa większości rodzajów skóry trądzikowej jest bardzo do siebie podobna.

Podstawa pielęgnacji, krótkich punktach:

– nie wolno przesuszać skóry (nie używamy kosmetyków zawierających alkohol)
– należy zachować szczególną hiegienę (osuszamy skórę najlepiej ręcznikiem papierowych ewentualnie mamy osobny ręcznik, często zmieniamy poszewkę poduszki, regularne przemywanie ekranu telefonu żelem antybakteryjnym)
– pod żadnym pozorem nie rozdrapujemy, wyciskamy wykwitów i stanów zapalnych,
– używamy kosmetyków antybakteryjnych, regulujących pracę gruczołów łojowych oraz filtrów ochronnych,
– nie używamy ciężkich podkładów.

Teraz od początku i po kolei.

KROK 1.

oczyszczanie – powinno być łagodne i dogłębne. Już tutaj unikamy produktów z alkoholem. Wybierzmy płyn micelarny, lekką piankę lub żel do mycia twarzy dedykowane do cery tądzikowej, ale nie wysuszające. Sprawdzajmy skład czy nie ma tam alkoholu. INCI: Alcohol bardzo prosto do zapamiętania ;), a szukajmy aloesu, rumianku (pod warunkiem, że nie jesteśmy uczuleni), aktywnego węgla.

KROK 2.

tonizacja – tutaj szczególnie polecam toniki z niską zawartością kwasów odpowiednio dobranych do rodzaju skóry. Latem z kwasem azelainowym, migdałowym, shikimowym, a jesienią i zimą można sięgnąć po mocniejsze rozwiązania z kwasem salicyowym, pirogronowym czy glikolowym. Tonik też nie powinien być na bazie alkoholu, gdyż alkohol pozostawiony na skórze mocno ją przesuszy.

KROK 3.

krem/serum – tutaj pamiętajmy starej zasadzie co za dużo to nie zdrowo, szczególnie w aktywnej fazie trądziku. Jedno serum i jeden krem w zupełności wystarczy nie trzeba mieć na dzień na noc i nagle nam się robi w łazience mnóstwo tubek a na twarzy mnóstwo składników i to często się powielających lub wykluczających. Tutaj warto zdać się na pomoc profesjonalisty i w gabinecie dobrać odpowiednie kosmetyki. Przy każdym rodzaju trądziku będziemy działać inaczej. Jeżeli decydujemy się sami poszukać kosmetyków to pamiętajmy, że muszą to być nie tylko przeciwbakteryjne, ale także nawilżające i sebostatyczne. WAŻNE! PAMIĘTAJ O NAWILŻANIU! Przesuszona skóra, będzie produkowała jeszcze więcej łoju, a tym samym trądzik będzie się nasilał. Szukajmy w kosmetykach m.in. cynku, aloesu, kwasu hialuronowego, niskich stężeń kwasów, alatnoniny, pantenolu, propolisu. Szukajmy kremów,które już mają filtry SPF 50, lub korzystajmy w lekkich kremów przeciwsłonecznych coraz częściej dostępnych w formie mgiełek.

KROK 4.

maseczka – raz/dwa razy w tygodniu – maseczka z zielonej glinki będzie idealna czy maseczka z aktywnym węglem (nie koniecznie peeloff).

KROK 5.

peeling – WAŻNE! unikamy peelingów ziarnistych, a właściwie omijamy je szerokim łukiem! Mówiąc bardzo wprost używając peelingu ziarnistego tylko i wyłącznie „roznosimy” trądzik, przenosimy baterie na obszar całej twarzy. Stawiamy na peelingi enzymatyczne. Jedynie przy typowych zaskórnikach można spokojnie używać peelingów ziarnistych. Peeling stosujemy raz w tygodniu.

KROK 6.

makijaż – i znowu bardzo istotne informacje. Często używamy bardzo ciężkich podkładów, aby wszystko zatuszować, a to niestety błąd. W ten sposób tylko zapychamy pory i pogarszamy stan naszej skóry. Należy postawić na lekkie kosmetyki mineralne. Może nie zatuszujemy 100% zmian, ale będziemy sukcesywnie i skutecznie walczyć z trądzikiem, aby w końcu nie mieć czego tuszować ;)

Tak powinna wyglądać podstawowa pielęgnacja cery trądzikowej. Pamiętajcie jednak, że każda skóra jest inna, u każdego są inne przyczyny występowania trądziku, a pielęgnacja dobrana indywidualnie. Zapraszam do zadawania pytań i dyskusji pod postem.
Zapraszam serdecznie do gabinetu na konsultacje zabiegi i dobór odpowiedniej pielęgnacji domowej.

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